Petzl Neox: for more effortless and smoother belaying

Escalada by Varuste.net / Toimisto-Jorma, 24.9.2024

Text and images ©Hanna Tyrväinen

First Impressions of the New Petzl Neox Belay Device
The initial thought about the new Petzl Neox belay device is whether it can offer a noticeable difference compared to the well-known GriGri+ and GriGri models. The Petzl Neox is a belay device designed for single-rope lead and top-rope climbing, featuring an actively assisted braking function.

We tested the Neox with an eight-person climbing group, both indoors and outdoors, using ropes of different thicknesses and climbers of various weights and skill levels. The real test took place in Kalymnos, known for its long and challenging overhang routes.

At first, the rope seems to slip through to the climber a bit too quickly, but as you get used to it, feeding slack becomes smooth and natural, saving energy for both the climber and the belayer. These good characteristics are especially highlighted in outdoor climbing on 40-meter routes, as the rope moves effortlessly between the belayer and the climber. This reduces tension and unnecessary delays in tight situations, as the climber can quickly pull the rope for clipping while leading. The unwanted locking of the device, compared to other so-called automatic devices, is minimal, and the climber essentially decides how much rope to take.

In fall situations, the Neox performs well and safely, as long as the belayer keeps their lower, brake hand properly on the rope. After a few test falls both indoors and outdoors, it’s easy to trust the device, as it quickly engages with the rope. Lowering the climber is also precise and controlled, regardless of the weight difference between the belayer and the climber, and the lowering speed can be easily adjusted using the handle.

Based on intensive testing, we can conclude that the Neox is an excellent belay device, especially for lead climbing, and well worth its price.

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